JDMaker Magic 3D Klipper Conversion Guide This guide details the process of converting a JDMaker Magic 3D printer to a Klipper-based system. This specific build uses a BTT Pi 1.2 and a BTT SKR Pico mainboard, but the principles can be applied to other Klipper-compatible hardware like a Raspberry Pi (or a clone) and a mainboard like the BTT SKR Mini E3 V3.
Disclaimer: This is an advanced modification. Attempt this at your own risk. Incorrect wiring can damage your components. Always double-check your connections before powering on your printer.
Why Klipper? Klipper is a high-performance firmware that offloads the heavy computational work from the 3D printer's mainboard to a more powerful computer, like a Raspberry Pi. This allows for faster, more precise printing with features such as:
Input Shaping for reduced ringing/ghosting.
Pressure Advance for better extrusion control.
Web interface for easy control and monitoring.
Improved stepper motor performance.
Prerequisites & Materials Hardware JDMaker Magic 3D Printer
BigTreeTech SKR Pico mainboard or any other klipper capable board
BigTreeTech Pi 1.2
Or Raspberry Pi (or clone) running a Klipper-compatible OS (e.g., Raspberry Pi OS, Mainsail OS, FluiddPi).
24V Power Supply (The stock PSU is sufficient)
Micro-USB cable
MicroSD card for the Pi
Tools & Consumables JST-XH connector kit (2, 3, 4, and 6-pin connectors)
JST crimpers
22 AWG silicone wire (various colors recommended for clarity)
Soldering iron and solder (optional, but can be helpful)
Multimeter for continuity testing
Wire cutters and strippers
Heat shrink tubing
Zip ties for cable management
Unique JDMaker Magic Wiring The JDMaker Magic has a unique wiring harness where multiple components are routed through a single loom. The goal of this conversion is to create new, individual wiring harnesses for each component to connect to the SKR Pico's specific ports. You will be cutting the stock connectors and crimping new JST connectors onto the wires.
Before you begin, label every wire! Use a multimeter to verify the purpose of each wire before you cut the old connector.
Stepper Motors The JDMaker Magic uses 4-pin connectors for its stepper motors. You will need to cut the old connectors and crimp on new JST-XH 4-pin connectors. Ensure the wire order matches the AABB configuration for the SKR Pico's stepper motor drivers.
X-axis: Cut the connector, identify the four wires, and crimp a new 4-pin JST-XH connector.
Y-axis: Cut the connector, identify the four wires, and crimp a new 4-pin JST-XH connector.
Z-axis: Cut the connector, identify the four wires, and crimp a new 4-pin JST-XH connector.
Extruder (E0): Cut the connector, identify the four wires, and crimp a new 4-pin JST-XH connector.
Endstops The JDMaker Magic uses 2-pin connectors for the endstops. They are typically Normally Closed (NC). You will need to cut and crimp new 2-pin JST-XH connectors.
X-axis endstop: Cut the connector and crimp a new 2-pin JST-XH connector.
Y-axis endstop: Cut the connector and crimp a new 2-pin JST-XH connector.
Z-axis endstop: Cut the connector and crimp a new 2-pin JST-XH connector.
Heaters and Thermistors The heaters and thermistors are non-polarized, so the wiring order does not matter. The SKR Pico uses 2-pin connectors for both.
Heater Bed: Cut the connector, identify the two thick wires, and crimp a new 2-pin JST-XH connector.
Hotend Heater (E0): Cut the connector, identify the two thick wires, and crimp a new 2-pin JST-XH connector.
Heater Bed Thermistor: Cut the connector, identify the two thin wires, and crimp a new 2-pin JST-XH connector.
Hotend Thermistor (E0): Cut the connector, identify the two thin wires, and crimp a new 2-pin JST-XH connector.
Fans The fans are polarized and will require you to identify the positive and negative wires. The SKR Pico uses 2-pin connectors.
Part Cooling Fan: Cut the connector, identify the positive and negative wires, and crimp a new 2-pin JST-XH connector.
Hotend Fan: Cut the connector, identify the positive and negative wires, and crimp a new 2-pin JST-XH connector.